How food became the perfect beachhead for gentrification

By Pascale Joassart-Marcelli, Professor of Geography and Director, Urban Studies and Food Studies Programs, San Diego State University

Everybody, it seems, welcomes the arrival of new restaurants, cafés, food trucks and farmers markets.

What could be the downside of fresh veggies, homemade empanadas and a pop-up restaurant specializing in banh mis?

But when they appear in unexpected places – think inner-city areas populated by immigrants – they’re often the first salvo in a broader effort to rebrand and remake the community. As a result, these neighborhoods can quickly become unaffordable and unrecognizable to longtime residents.

Stoking an appetite for gentrification

I live in San…

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