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Mugler's latest collection is inspired by the glamour of air travel and film noir

ROUGH CUT (NO REPORTER NARRATION) Mugler's autumn/winter 2013 collection presented on Wednesday (February 27) during Paris Fashion Week was a noticeable departure from the usual DNA of the French house. The brand has always been known for presenting its models as PVC-clad dominatrixes with its razor-sharp silhouettes, its trademark exaggerated peaked shoulders, and its use of futuristic fetish fabrics (neoprene, latex, silicone). Yet this latest collection by Mugler creative director Nicolas Formichetti and designer Sebastien Peigné was much more subdued. There was an intellectual and conceptual feel to the clothes, with its architectural shapes and use of soft fabrics including ultra-feminine vermiculite cashmere, pilled wool and mink. The collection was eclectic, perhaps because its inspiration was drawn from a variety of things ranging from the curved symmetries of Brazil to Hitchcock and the 40s silhouette to the bygone glamourous era of air travel.

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